Chiltern Way - South 5 Days Walking/6 Night Package
Average daily distance 10.2 miles Longest day 12.9 miles Most ascent in a day 1,500 feet
This walk covers the southern section of the Chiltern Way. Although the walk includes some hills these are not prolonged. We’ve included the total feet of ascent for each day.
The walk starts in Marlow where there are good transport links. It finishes at Ipsden with transport to either Wallingford or Goring depending on your onward travel arrangements.
All the accommodations are close to the route.
Itinerary
Day 0 Arrive at Marlow
Arrive at your leisure at The Chequers. This boutique hotel has a renowned pub and restaurant and is centrally located on the high street in this attractive and fashionable town . Marlow is one of the loveliest locations on the River Thames; the vibrant Georgian market town is made up of historic streets, an abundance of vintage and modern boutique shops, restaurants, cafes, bistros and pubs.
Marlow was home to Mary Shelley who wrote Frankenstein whilst living here. You can learn more by visiting the museum.
The Chequers offers The Great British Menu in its restaurant boasting “The Butchers Block “ for avid steak lovers, or settle for the modest rustic country bar area to fill up on the chef’s gourmet grub.
Alternatively and if you have the budget try a supper at Sindhu by Atul Kochhar at Macdonald Compleat Angler or Tom Kerridge’s The Hand & Flowers, the first gastropub to hold two Michelin stars.
Marlow is easily accessible by train. The “Marlow Donkey” leaves Maidenhead every hour, taking just 20 minutes. Maidenhead lies on the Great Western Railway between Slough and Reading, easily accessible from London.
Day 1 Marlow to Frieth 9.6 miles (900 feet of ascent)
On leaving Marlow you will soon be in woodland, the first of many for the next five days. You soon meet the Chiltern Way coming in from Marlow Bottom as you work you way through Davenport Wood. Then onto Homefield Wood, a Site of Special Scientific Interest, known for its orchids which flower at the end of May and early June.
Out of the woods, through open fields and past the quaintly-named Rotten Row takes you to Hambleden Estate. The delightful village of Hambleden lies at the bottom of the hill, a pretty village of brick and flint cottages. St Mary’s church dates from the 14th century. Hambleden was the home of William Henry Smith, founder (in 1821) of a famous chain of bookshops; and Lord Cardigan, famous for his role in leading the ill-fated Charge of the Light Brigade.
Refreshed at either the Stag and Huntsman or the Village Store with its fresh cakes and pastries, the walk turns sharp north heading up the lovely Hambleden valley to Skirmett. The path threads a straight line between fields and the backs of cottages.
At Skirmett we change direction again heading east through Adam’s Wood, a steep climb. Here we leave the Chiltern Way briefly for our accommodation, the Yew Tree at Frieth.
It’s just a mile from the Chiltern Way to the lovely village of Frieth, once home to King Zog of Albania during World War II. The Yew Tree lies in the heart of the village and has an appetising evening menu. A variety of hot breakfast options is available from 8.30am.
Day 2 Frieth to Nettlebed 8.1 miles (1200 feet of ascent)
After a hearty breakfast it’s back up the hill to rejoin the Chiltern Way a little on from where you left it. Soon you will have a glorious view of the village of Fingest below you. The village has a fine pub, The Chequers. But you might be a little early! Don’t worry. There’s another pub coming up soon! You’ll also see a windmill in the distance. Cobstone Mill was used in the filming of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.
Through the village of Fingest and past its lovely church you are soon in the next village in the valley: Turville. Now, this may seem familiar to you. For it was here that the Vicar of Dibley was filmed. Why not stop for a spot of lunch at the Bull & Butcher.
You have a bit of a climb out of Turville with glorious views of the valley and the windmill behind you. Past the hamlet of Southend with its stable of horses you will descend through Kildridge Wood to Stonor Park, passing the impressive Jacobean mansion House, open in the season with separate visits to the house and gardens. The Chapel, which can be visited, and House are closely associated with Saint Edmund Campion, a Jesuit priest, who hid there during the reformation. There is a very pleasant Café at the house which makes an ideal stopping place mid walk.
Following another gentle climb we suggest you temporarily leave the Chiltern Way and enter the Warburg Nature Reserve a protected Chiltern woodland. Within the reserve are a visitors’ centre, bird hides and dedicated wildlife walks. From April to August, the reserve is rich in orchids; and in spring, the woodland is ablaze with bluebells and wood anemones.
The (one mile longer but same ascent) Chiltern Way will take you, via a quiet lane, to the Five Horseshoes – which is currently closed. Hence the suggested rerouting. Both options converge at Crocker End with a short walk to Nettlebed, your home for the evening.
The White Hart is a traditional 14th Century coaching house with a blend of modernity in the style of a boutique hotel with a warm and cosy atmosphere. The menu is described as British with an emphasis on quality of the ingredients. Each bedroom has been stylishly modernised and individually designed with no two rooms the same.
If staying on a Monday you might want to pop along to the Folk Club held in the village hall. Previous musicians appearing here include Fairport Convention, Ralph McTell and Steeleye Span.
Day 3 Nettlebed to Binfield Heath 8.8 miles (600 feet of ascent)
Today we rejoin the Chiltern Way at Crocker End, heading east through Wellgrove Wood, a delightful landscape that leads down to the remains of St James’ Church in Bix Bottom. A long ascent takes you to Bix and through a mixture of fields and woodlands to Greys Court.
Greys Court is a Tudor country house owned by the National Trust. The Chiltern Way goes right through the property – in fact, past the ticket office! You don’t need to pay anything but you might want to visit. Nothing to do with Lady Jane Grey or Earl Grey, the property dates back to Norman knight Anschetil de Grai.
The Chiltern Way now follows a farm track intermittently adjoining forest and field all the way to the entrance of Crowsley Park. Here the path splits: one section heading towards Henley, the other into Crowsley Park. You will take the Henley route which, after a mile, will arrive at the Bottle and Glass Inn near Binfield Heath. Don’t worry. We’ll return to Crowsley Park tomorrow.
The Bottle and Glass Inn is a cosy thatched-roof pub with an appetising a la carte menu with breakfast served in the barn.
Day 4 Binfield Heath to Pangbourne 10.6 miles (600 feet of ascent)
After retracing your steps for a mile you now enter Crowsley Park proper. Don’t be surprised to find horses grazing. Nor be surprised at the enormous satellite dishes in the distance. Crowsley Park is now the BBC’s listening service – whatever that means! It moved here from nearby Caversham Park. The walk takes you past the 18th century manor house once owned by Henry Baskerville, High Sheriff of Oxfordshire in 1847. Stories about his association with fierce dogs were the inspiration for Conan Doyle’s The Hound of the Baskervilles.
The path now passes through a variety of landscapes: past the disused Bird in Hand pub (shame!), hamlets such as Chalkhouse Green and Tokers Green, past two golf courses, and finally into the woods of Mapledurham Estate.
A downhill walk through the lovely woods with commanding views of the Thames will being you to Mapledurham village. Where do we begin?
The house: the estate has been in the Blount family since 1490. The current house was built in the 16th century in the classic Elizabethan E-shape.
The church: St Margaret’s, adjoining the house, is Anglican. The Blount family remains Catholics throughout the Reformation. There is a chancel, unused since the Reformation, owned by the family. Inside the house, there is a chapel which holds public masses once a month.
The watermill: once used to produce flour, it now provides electricity. But you remember it from a famous scene in The Eagle Has Landed with Michael Caine and Donald Sutherland.
The Chiltern Way runs parallel to the Thames but with some elevation! After just over a half mile, it strikes uphill through the woods. You will carry straight on through the neighbouring estate of Hardwick where King Charles I came to play bowls whilst a prisoner in Reading. Past the largest Alpaca farm in Europe and you will be in Whitchurch. Across the bridge is Pangbourne, and The Elephant, your home for the night.
The Elephant sits next to the parish church and Church Cottage, once home to Kenneth Grahame. It’s this connection that makes some believe that Maledurham House, or possibly, Hardwick Estate, was the inspiration for Toad Hall. Regardless, enjoy your evening in the company of Pangbourne’s many fine restaurants.
Day 5 Pangbourne to Ipsden 12.9 miles (1,500 feet of ascent)
The walk starts with a climb out of the Thames Valley up Whitchurch Hill. The roadside pavement soon gives way to fields and woods as you navigate around the many farms and smallholdings. A delightful walk through Great Chalk Wood follows which takes you down to Goring for lunch with its pubs and cafes.
Suitably refreshed you have a long climb out of Goring, the highlight being Wroxhills Woods where European Larch has been commercially planted. Out of the woods, you’ll get a glorious view of the Thames Valley with Oxfordshire’s twin peaks of Wittenham Clumps in the distance.
Woodcote is soon reached, with the opportunity of more refreshment. But you may want to push on as the end of the walk is nearing. Through the woods of Braziers Common you’ll pass Garsons Farm where there’s a chance for more refreshments at the outdoor Blue Tin Coffee Bar and Smokehouse with its famous sausage rolls.
Down the wooded Berins Hill and you’ll see the extraordinary “Grand Designs” home on the opposite hill – its famous owner will be revealed in your itinerary once you’ve booked. And so, to the King William IV pub where, regardless of the weather, you’ll find a comfortable place to enjoy a hot or cold drink as we organise a car for you. For tonight you have a choice of accommodation. The George at Wallingford, four miles away, is nearest. But if your onward travel is by train then you might want to stay at the Miller of Mansfield in Goring, a little further.
Prices
Prices inclusive of bed and breakfast plus baggage transfer between hotels. Transfer from the King William IV in Ipsden to either Wallingford or Goring is also provided. A map and instructions are included. You will have unlimited access to our local team in the event of difficulties.
Price per person assuming shared occupancy: £820
Price per person assuming single occupancy: £1,255
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