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    • About Us
    • How our route planner works
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    • What We Do
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    • Online Events
  • Walks
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      • Kennet & Avon Canal Walk 9 days
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Newsletter September 6, 2024

Silbury Hill near Avebury, on The Ridgeway

 This newsletter has been almost ready to send for about two weeks. But things kept getting in the way of finishing it off. The result is that the paragraph below is slightly out of date. But we’ve decided not to tamper with it anymore. 

We are now approaching the end of summer.Throughout the south of England the fields are golden brown with hay, barley and wheat. Even if the crops have been mowed, this still leaves a distinct colour -not found in the north of England. We may not have mountains but we do have fields of gold.

The photo was taken near Avebury near the start of The Ridgeway. Beyond the hayfield you can see Silbury Hill, one of the many neolithic monuments built in the area.

Whilst August is one of our quietest months, September is one of our busiest. Last week welcomed 14 members from the Worshipful Company of Pewterers who followed the Thames Path from Marlow to Pewterers Hall in the City of London. So a word about Worshipful Companies also known as livery companies on account of the uniforms they wear. These are the “descendants” of guilds (craftsmen) that were formed in London in the middle ages. There are 111 guilds, the top 5 (in order of precedence) being the mercers, grocers, drapers, fishmongers and goldsmiths. Today the livery companies aside from electing the Lord Mayor of London (not to be confused with the political Mayor of London!) bestow significant funds to charities. Two of the livery companies, the Vintners and the Dyers, participate in Swan Upping.

The Pewterers lie in a respectable 16th place being one of the oldest guilds, pewter being a cheap alloy. The Pewterers are raising funds for the Institute of Neurology, a world-class organization dedicated to translating neuroscience discovery research into treatments for patients with neurological diseases such as strokes, epilepsy, dementia and Parkinson’s disease. The Institute is closely associated with the National Hospital for Neurology and Neurosurgery. If you would like to support them, you can donate here.

Hammersmith Bridge from Chiswick Mall

Thames Path Route News

Shall we start with some good news? The riverside walk behind Craven Cottage, Fulham FC’s football ground, is finally open. No need to walk around three sides of the ground anymore. Note that it will be closed on match days.

The tunnel below Halfpenny Bridge at Lechlade, which we reported in the last newsletter as having opened, has since closed and re-opened. Work appears to be being done on the structure of the bridge. If walking downstream and find the gate locked, exit on the bridge into Lechlade and follow the footpath through the churchyard which will take you to St John’s Lock and to the next diversion! If walking upstream, it might be best to follow the diversion in case you get all the way to Halfpenny Bridge to find your way blocked. Discretion is the better part of valour!

Another diversion has started just past Goring where the river bank has collapsed. The diversion makes use of a parallel road and is therefore relatively short.

Also under “new”, part of the Path between Osney Bridge and Folly Bridge is being repaired. Diversions are supposed to be in place (not verified) but we would imagine you will cross to the other side of the river at Gasworks Bridge.

But without a doubt the most disturbing report we’ve heard is that of cows getting onto a bridge due to broken fencing as you approach Inglesham. The photo below was sent in by a concerned walker. We have notified the National Trails office.

Other existing diversions:

Just downstream from St Johns Lock (past Lechlade) another wooden footbridge with the exotic name of Bloomer’s Hole is deemed unsafe and is to be repaired. There is a small diversion using the pre-existing Thames Path Alternative. It briefly follows the road to Kelmscott, past the caravan park on your left, taking a footpath to your right which rejoins the Thames on the left bank just across from the bridge.

At Culham there is a small diversion on account of a wooden bridge that needs attention. This is one where the diversion signs have been cast aside. We think the work has not been completed.

Benson Weir is still closed. The ferry is operating as the river is no longer red-boarded. The good news is that work is underway to repair the weir.

There is a new diversion to avoid the closed boardwalk at Marsh Lock Henley. This starts at Shiplake and takes you briefly into the Chilterns. The diversion adds an extra 1.0 miles to the walk although feedback that we’ve received is that it feels much longer!  The diversion is supposed to add an extra mile. But, bear in mind that the distance from Shiplake to Henley is already 2.4 miles. So the diversion is therefore 3.4 miles in total.

The diversion at Temple Bridge is still in place following its closure.

And damage to a bridge has caused a diversion from just past the Runnymede Hotel to shortly before Staines. The diversion uses the A308 (pavements) returning the walker to the riverbank just before the bridge at Staines. The diversion takes about 0.6  miles of the route with minimal added distance. The diversion, which was expected to last 6 months from February 2024, is now set to be in place until 2026. The signage for this diversion is not that obvious. Note that this is one of those diversions where locals and officials are engaged in a running battle of the barricades.

For a full list please see our route alerts page on the website.

Approaching Inglesham

Hospitality

Last month we reported on another pub to end breakfasts. So it was a surprise to find that 1843 in Reading has re-introduced breakfasts.

The Rising Sun at Hurley has closed unexpectedly. New landlords are expected in the next few weeks.

As the season progresses, we’ve received great feedback from our walkers on the places they’ve stayed. One glowing report came from someone staying at the Olde Swan in Chertsey. This isn’t a popular place as it’s in the town of Chertsey which lies a mile from the Thames. But, as a competitively priced “Bronze” hotel which also doesn’t serve breakfast, it was described as a “getting a gold medal for loveliness”.

From the same walker came the following dinner recommendations: Red Lion, Cricklade; Limencello, Abingdon; Masooms, Goring; Thai Orchard,Maidenhead; The Carpenter’s Arms, Windsor; and La Fiamma, Hampton Wick. Thank you Julia.

Olde Swan, Chertsey

What’s On and Events

Wallingford is hosting an Agatha Christie Murder Mystery Weekend from 6 to 8 September. There will be  picnics, walks, films, talks, sketching with Agatha, mystery trips on the Bunkline and river boat.

Seasonal exhibitions:

The Ashmolean Museum in Oxford has an exhibition entitled Money Talks: Art, Society and Power. It features works by Rembrandt, Andy Warhol, Guerrilla Girls, Grayson Perry and Banksy, and the new phenomenon of cryptocurrency and NFTs.

Dorchester Abbey is hosting a tribute to Pink Floyd with lights, lasers and animations on September 27 and 28. This is followed on October 19 by a more conservative classical concert by the Orchestra of St John with,amongst others, Vaughan Williams’ Lark Ascending, John Williams Schindlers List andElgar’s Nimrod from Enigma Variations.

Windsor Castle is celebrating the 100th anniversary of Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, the largest and most famous dolls’ house in the world. A special exhibition is being housed in the famous Waterloo Chamber. The exhibition runs throughout the year.

 
Wallingford
The Ridgeway

The Inn with the Well, quite an institution at Ogbourne St George, is hanging up its boots as a pub and becoming a “bed and breakfast” from September 30. It will still serve food to residents. But will be closing its doors to non-residents.
The Inn with the Well, Ogbourne St George
Camino Ingles/St James’ Way
 
The St James’ Way is featured as the main article in the autumn edition of Walk, the Ramblers’ magazine.  We, ourselves, took time off to complete our own Camino. Having walked through the winter from Reading to Basingstoke, we completed the route down to Southampton. The Camino is surprisingly green with some beautiful walks alongside the River Itchen which runs all the way into Southampton. The path is well signposted with the distinctive yellow on blue Camino signs. There are only a few diversions and trouble spots – all of which we were well advised by our partners at Walking the Camino. Highlights were receiving at pilgrim’s blessing at Winchester Cathedral, being given a morsel of bread and a cup of ale at the Hospital of St Cross just outside Winchester, and collecting our final stamp at God’s House Tower in Southampton accompanied by the foghorn of a cruise ship who, ironically, was heading to A Coruna, Spain, the next stop on the Camino Ingles.
 

And finally…

Walkers come in all shapes, sizes, ages, nationalities and backgrounds. But we’ve been very fortunate this season (and last) to have helped comedian, actor and presenter Frank Skinner and family. They have been walking the Thames Path in short stages in between work commitments. Here he is being dropped off at Maidenhead station having walked from Staines.

That’s all folks. See you on the Trail!
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