Newsletter June 3, 2024

A new arrival on the Thames

It feels like an eternity since we sent our last newsletter out. A lot of water has crossed under the bridge since – excuse the pun! So here’s a brief recap of events.

We had a very wet March which led to some early April postponements. By mid-April conditions were back to normal and, throughout May, the Path has been relatively dry.

That’s the good news. The bad news is that the number of diversions seems to be growing. We don’t remember a time when there were so many diversions in place.See below for more information.

Shepperton Ferry

Thames Path Route News

There are thankfully only two places where floodwater is still standing. These are at the field before North Meadow, Cricklade where the evacuation route is via the disused railway line (aka cycle route 45); the other is between Cricklade and Castle Eaton where pockets of standing water can be avoided by utilising the full width of the field.

Now for an update on diversions:

The underpass below Halfpenny Bridge at Lechlade is closed to pedestrians although vehicles can go over it. The council believes that the bridge is unsafe to walk under but is safe enough to drive over. Downstream walkers must access the top of the bridge, walk into Lechlade, and follow the path through the churchyard (where Shelley wrote his famous poem) and down to St John’s Lock where you can rejoin the route. Not an unpleasant diversion. Upstream walkers must leave the Path at St John’s Lock and walk into Lechlade.

Next is Osney Bridge in Oxford where Thames Water are doing some works. The route is barred shortly before the bridge and you are diverted onto a road parallel to the river.

At Culham there is a small diversion on account of a wooden bridge that needs attention.

Benson Weir is still closed. The ferry is operating as the river is no longer red-boarded. The good news is that work is underway to repair the weir.

As reported in our last newsletter, there is a new diversion to avoid the closed boardwalk at Marsh Lock Henley. This starts at Shiplake and takes you briefly into the Chilterns. The diversion adds an extra 1.0 miles to the walk. The Environment Agency, after a 2 year silence, have acknowledged that the boardwalk belongs to them!

The diversion at Temple Bridge is still in place following its closure.

And damage to a bridge has caused a diversion from just past the Runnymede Hotel to shortly before Staines. The diversion uses the A308 (pavements) returning the walker to the riverbank just before the bridge at Staines. The diversion takes about 0.6 miles of the route with minimal added distance. The diversion is expected to last 6 months from February 2024. Note: the signage for this diversion is not that obvious.

And finally Teddington Lock footbridge will be closed for repairs the weekend of June 15-16.

Hospitality

There’s been a few changes in ownership amongst pubs and B&B’s. John at the Plough in Clifton Hampden, who has been trying to retire for years, has finally managed to transfer ownership. The new owner, Jack, is keen to welcome walkers and has been very co-operative with our bag transfers. Also changing hands is the Coachmakers in Wallingford now run by Luke, a very pleasant young man.

The Runnymede Hotel is undergoing a major renovation. Currently guests cannot access the riverfront – and vice versa. This may explain their recent drop in prices.

And two hotels have unexpectedly closed: the Dog and Badger at Medmenham has been forced to close whilst investigations are underway surrounding a mysterious hole in the car park; and the Eton Mess (in Eton – where else?) has also closed for unknown reasons.

The Head of the River in Oxford, which was closed for refurbishment, has opened its doors for bar and restaurant and is now taking bookings for accommodation.

Runnymede Hotel: its riverside gardens now closed

What’s On and Events

June brings a number of big events to the Thames calendar.

The Gap Festival takes place in Goring from 7 to June 16. One of the highlights is a performance for 3 nights of Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro. It takes place at Streatley Farmhouse.

Hampton Court Palace Festival starts on June 11 and lasts for about two weeks with performances from Tom Jones, Nile Rodgers and Chic, Sheryl Crow and Paloma Faith.

The Garter Ceremony takes place at Windsor Castle on June 17 immediately followed by Royal Ascot. If you have accommodation already booked, well done and enjoy. If not, good luck!

Fullers’ pubs are, once again, offering some summer fun. Opera in the Garden is back, this time with Carmen (Bull, Sonning June 12; Anglers, Teddington Lock August 4,5). And they are also bringing Shakespeare in the Garden with two productions. Much Ado About Nothing will be at The Pilot in Greenwich (July 22-23; September 10); the Anglers, Teddington Lock (August 18-19; September 11); and, for Ridgeway Walkers, Bel & the Dragon in Wendover on September 3. The Tempest will be at the Bull Sonning (August 21)

Abingdon Museum is hosting an exhibition dedicated to the MG motor car. This is the centenary year of the MG and the car was made in Abingdon from 1929.

Seasonal exhibitions:

The Ashmolean Museum in Oxford is showing Bruegel to Rubens, an exhibition of Great Flemish Drawings. It runs from March 23 to June 23.

Windsor Castle is celebrating the 100th anniversary of Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, the largest and most famous dolls’ house in the world. A special exhibition is being housed in the famous Waterloo Chamber. The exhibition runs throughout the year.

Tate Britain has an exhibition entitled Sargent and Fashion, exploring the unique work of John Singer Sargent. It runs until July 7.

Tate Modern features an exhibition dedicated to Yoko Ono. It runs until September 1.

The Bull, Sonning: one of a number of Fullers’ pubs offering Shakespeare and/or Opera in the Garden

Camino Ingles/St James’ Way

We led three of Visit Reading’s Walk Festival’s Camino walks along the St James’ Way. It was wonderful to introduce over 60 walkers – or ‘Pilgrims’ to the Camino, some of whom are now planning their own journey to Southampton and even all the way to Santiago de Compostela.

Highlights included compulsory bell ringing at St Mary’s Sulhamstead (thank you Rev. Dr. Peabody) in exchange for a passport stamp. And the personal tour and talk at Pamber Priory given by the sprightly 86yrs young church warden, David Cullum was an added bonus.

It was great to see how many pilgrims are walking the St James’ Way this season; it really is growing in popularity at such a fast pace, although the infrastructure still lags some way behind, certainly if compared with more established routes like the Thames Path.

That said, we were warmly welcomed everywhere and there are some wonderful new finds at every turn. For example, the Baobab at Mortimer, whose owners are great Camino supporters, now stock locally made wooden walking staffs, with a branded Santiago cross of St James.

The Confraternity of St James has released the 2024 SJW guide book, a vast improvement with loads of helpful and interesting new information. We’re delighted to be featured in it.

We’re extra excited this week, as the definitive 32 page Harper Collins Map of the St James’ Way has just been printed. Shame they’ve dropped the Thames Path! We’ve laid our hands on a supply for all our walkers, so along with all the extensive way-marking, there really is no reason to get lost these days!

Lastly, and most importantly, after 15 months from a pipe dream to reality, we’re delighted that our first guests will soon be commencing their Camino along the St James’ Way, and we can’t wait to welcome them… and to transfer their bags along the Way of course!

Chiltern Ramble

This month saw our first walkers complete the Chiltern Ramble, designed and tested over the winter. This 30 mile 3 day walk runs from Marlow to Goring and cuts through some of the most beautiful and unspoilt countryside in England. The first day ends at the Stag and Huntsman in Hambleden, a mile from Hambleden Lock on the Thames. This offers Thames Path walkers a brief glimpse of this beautiful region. Most are blissfully unaware that the fictional village of Dibley lies just a few miles further up the valley, overlooked by the “Chitty Chitty Bang Bang” windmill.

We had some very positive feedback from our walkers with just some tightening up required of the route description.

Our walkers would have enjoyed the spectacular bluebell scenes which come out in late April/early May. This photo is taken on day 2 of the walk.

Thames Path Passport

We’re pleased to say that Reading Museum have agreed to be a stamping station. They have their own stamp (it’s rather big!) as they are also a stamping station for the Camino Ingles. They will be listed in the 2024 edition which will be going to press soon.

We are aware that the stamp at St John the Baptist, Inglesham has gone missing. We have ordered a replacement stamp.

The River and Rowing Museum in Henley now has a QR code so that you can virtually stamp your passport. Stamping stations with QR codes are shown on our web page with an *. If you can’t get a stamp, for whatever reason, don’t worry. Just make a note in your book and we’ll see you are not denied a certificate.

Reading Town Hall, home of Reading Mueum, our latest passport stamping station

UK Ekiden

Ekiden is a traditional Japanese long distance relay race. The first ever UK Ekiden will take place on June 24 and will go from Oxford to Windsor along the Thames Path. We are proud to say that we have been “slightly” involved, offering advice on potential changeover points. The race should coincide with the state visit of the Emperor of Japan who, incidentally, studied at Oxford.

That’s all folks. See you on the Trail!

Walking.Holiday